To build this, I first marked the proposed location of the door on the wall, and then marked the location of the ceiling joists.
Protect the flooring and finished ceiling by placing a few sheets of corrugated cardboard between the plates. Extend the brace wall so the top plate extends a few feet beyond each side of the proposed door location so the overhead framing is completely supported when you cut through the existing wall.
Instead, I used a T-Jak, which is a threaded, telescoping cabinet jack that works great for all sorts of overhead installations when you need a third hand. Finally, I finish up the brace wall with a couple of 2-by-4 cross-braces fastened with two screws each to the edge of the 2-by-4 studs. The homeowner will appreciate this dust barrier when you cut through the wall and kick up all sorts of airborne debris. These days, many electronic stud finders offer the multi-functionality to detect pipes and electrical lines inside a wall.
This wall had no plumbing but did have an electrical outlet that was wired through the floor plate. One extremely handy tool for opening the wall in an orderly fashion is a flush-cut saw.
In my case, I used a Rotozip with a flush-cut attachment, which I highly recommend for this type if work. I slightly modified the flush-cut attachment by duct taping a wood shim onto the cutting guide, which gave me the exact depth-of-cut I needed to slice the drywall without penetrating the framing—or anything else—on the other side.
I then used a hammer to open the wallboard even further, pulling it away from the nails that held it on the studs, and then prying up the nails. Next, remove the insulation. Fiberglass can irritate the eyes and skin, so wear safety protection and dispose of the old batts in plastic bags. At this point I ran into an unexpected obstacle: a 1-by-4 cross-brace supporting the corner of the house framing due to a lack of structural sheathing.
So, I had to re-frame the wall using an atypical method to accommodate the lack of structural sheathing, throwing a wrench into the standard framing procedure I was hoping to detail in this article. There are two important things to point out. First, see the diagram above for the details on framing a standard door opening. You can probably expect to build according to that sketch, rather than my method that employed a monster 4-by header, some extra doubled studs and metal strapping to frame this door.
Second, I do not necessarily advocate framing your door using the method shown in the photos, in case you encounter a similar problem with your project. As always, consult your local building inspector for an approved method, as requirements for shear walls and general construction will vary among localities, based on everything from high-wind exposure and seismic concerns to simple politics.
Do as your inspector says, not as I do. That being said, the methods for cutting through the wall and installing the door will remain the same among standard pre-hung door installations. After cutting out the cross-brace with the Rotozip, I cut the existing studs out of the house wall by using a recip saw to slice through the nails at the top and bottom of each stud start at the top. Refer to your door for the recommended rough opening size—mine was 34 inches wide, 82 inches high.
When reframing the wall, you should double the studs that frame the door. The two inner studs, called trimmer studs, should be cut to support the door header from beneath.
Unlike the monster by beam I used as a header, most single entryways can get by with a 4-by-4 header. For example, a 4-by-4 No. For smaller headers the distance between the header and the top plate may be taken up by cripple studs partial studs. Always make sure your rough opening is plumb, square and true. Replacing the siding for the entire house was not an option.
I doubled all the studs, and fastened the header flush beneath the ceiling top plate and over the studs, allowing the inch high rough opening accounting for the floor plate, which was still in place. Learn more about how to shop safely and donate safely.
When building a house, one of the most important next-steps after pouring the foundation and constructing the walls, is to install the exterior door.
That way, you know which way the door will open, and whether the room has enough space to accommodate the swing. You can do this by standing with your back against the hinge side of the door space and swinging your fully extended arm. Typically, doors swing into a room. Examine the room the door is swinging into, and be careful not to have any light switches covered by the door as you enter the space. Start the installation by cutting the house rap at the top of the opening.
This will help you more easily install the Protecto Wrap. This requires removing the door as well as the existing exterior trim and old insulation. To help minimize dust during the demolition, remove the door towards the end of the process prior to extracting the main frame. Using your hammer and a nail set or a screwdriver , remove the hinge pins and detach your old door for the hinges. Keep driving the pin upward with the hammer until it comes out. Score the caulking between molding and wall in order to break the seal.
With a pry bar and hammer, carefully remove molding. Pry away the doorjamb, framing, and the threshold. Now you can scrape away the old caulking. Create rough opening around frame. You need to measure the width between the side jambs, the head jamb to the seal under the old threshold, as well as the thickness of the wall. The rough opening needs to be a minimum of 1 inch 2. If needed, use shims or a beveled board to level it. If the door needs to clear an especially high floor, like a thick carpet, a spacer board may be needed.
Make sure everything is level. While you're working you should periodically check with your leveler that everything is staying level. If things aren't level you might end up with a tilted door or frame, which will cause problems later on. Part 2. Dry-fit the new door. This means that you place the door where it's going to be set to make sure that everything is going to fit properly. If you find any problems at this stage like the door doesn't fit, things aren't even then you'll need to deal with those first.
Apply caulk. Apply two thick beads of caulk, along the front and rear edges of the subsill, where the sill will be placed. Continue applying the caulk approximately 2 inches 5. Insert door into opening. Place the bottom of the door first, tilting the top out toward you, then slide the door into place. It's best to work from the outside of the house when you're inserting the door into the opening. You may want to enlist a friend to help you lift and place the door depending on its weight.
Be sure that the door is centered in the opening, and assure that the frame fits snugly into place at the bottom of the opening. Shim the rest of the door-frame.
Place shims on the hinge side of the door, behind any points where hinges will be attached to the door frame. The door will be secured to the rough opening in these areas later. Secure door temporarily. After you've made all of the necessary adjustments, secure the door temporarily, using 16d finishing nails. Lightly drive the nails through the hinge jamb, near where the hinges will be installed.
Don't put the nails all the way in. Part 3. Test the swing of the door. It should open and close smoothly. Sometimes pre-hung doors will have an adjustable sill, which can be useful it the door isn't quite adjusted perfectly. You want to make sure that the door doesn't scrap the floor inside your house.
If necessary, make adjustments by moving the jamb in or out, at the top or the bottom. Secure door-jambs. Cut out and remove the drywall. Editor's Tip: When picking lumber sizes, consider the door size. A 2x6 header is strong enough for a 3-foot-wide door opening. If you are cutting a larger opening as for a patio door , install temporary supports and use larger lumber. After framing the opening the bottom plate will be cut and removed.
Use a circular saw, then a reciprocating saw, to cut through each exposed stud in two places. If you are confident of your measuring and cutting skills, you can cut the bottom of these studs to serve as the bottom of the cripples, but they must be cut straight and square. Most homes have platform framing, with studs that span between a bottom and top plate.
Some older homes have balloon framing, in which the studs travel up through the floor and the ceiling, with no plates. If you have balloon framing, you will need to cut the studs to the height of the floor joists that is, the bottom of the subflooring. Also cut and install short cripple studs for each side and cut a piece of subflooring to fit. Pry away the studs and pull them off the bottom plate. For safety while you work, pound exposed nails out of the exterior wall or bend them.
Then, mark the locations of king and jack studs. Check that the distance between the jack studs equals the width of the rough opening. Assemble a king-and-jack-stud combination. Cut the king stud to reach from the bottom plate to the top plate. Place the jack stud on top of the king stud and nail or screw the pieces together. Tap the king-and-jack combination into position and use a level to check that it is plumb.
0コメント